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Copyright 2008
Certified HVAC Technicians Home Heating And Safety Secrets Revealed!
all rights reserved


Free Sample - Fuel Nozzle Replacement

Here is a FREE example of the format taken from Certified HVAC Technicians Home Heating And Safety Secrets Revealed e-book teaching you how to replace your burner nozzle.

Studies show fouled and dirty fuel nozzles cause a large percentage of oil fired burner failure.

Replacing The Fuel Nozzle

Always make sure the power and fuel are off
while you are working on your unit!
See electrical and fuel supply shut down procedure
(located in the full CD version).

You will need to purchase a new nozzle prior to replacing it... the size of the nozzle should be labeled on your furnace. If it is not you will need to remove the old nozzle to determine the size.

If the burner is not exposed like the one pictured here...

 
 

You may need to remove the cover from your furnace to expose the burner compartment.

 
 

You will need to remove the nozzle fuel line located on the same side as the fuel pump. This could be on the left or right hand side of the burner.

 
 

The fuel pump will appear very similar to the one pictured here or...

 
 

here.

 
 

Scratch a mark into the housing locating where the nozzle drawer assembly is located.

 
 

Remove the nozzle fuel line nut.

 
 

Remove the jam nut (place in a plastic cup so you don't lose it).

 
 

Remove the nozzle line from the nozzle assembly fuel tube.

 
 

You may need to loosen the drawer adjustment screw
(remember to mark it) to complete the next step.

 
 

Loosen the screws holding the transformer down and pull it back to open (pictured open). The transformer is usually hinged and swings open like a door.

 
 

Remove the nozzle assembly.

 

The retention head may be mounted on the nozzle assembly (right) or the end of the burner tube (left)... older models may not even have one. That is one of the reasons newer models are more efficient, they have retention heads that retain the heat in the combustion area where it is needed! 


 

Remove the retention head from the nozzle assembly (if it is mounted there). Be careful not to bump the electrode tips while removing the retention head. If the head is permanently mounted (there will not be screws to remove it), move on to the next section.

 
 

The head is held on to the nozzle assembly with one or two screws if it is removable (pictured).


 

Clean the retention head with degreaser and light sandpaper removing the carbon buildup.


 

Record your burner electrode measurements before going any further! Although we will show you the settings for the majority of units, knowing the original settings will be helpful. The vertical setting is shown here...

 
 

You will also need to record the horizontal settings....
   

And forward settings.
   
Use the following chart and photos to set the electrodes to the proper settings by knowing the nozzle size (G.P.H.) and degree. For instance... if you have a 75 G.P.H. X 60 degree nozzle the A setting would be 9/16" to 5/8", the B setting would be 1/8" to 3/16, and the C setting would be 5/16"

 Nozzle          G.P.H.                A                       B                    C      

45 Deg.     .75 to 4.0       1/2" to 9/16"    1/8" to 3/16"       5/16"
60 Deg.     .75 to 4.0       9/16" to 5/8"    1/8" to 3/16"       5/16"
70 Deg.     .75 to 4.0       9/16" to 5/8"    1/8" to 3/16"        1/8"
80 Deg.     .75 to 4.0       9/16" to 5/8"    1/8" to 3/16"        1/8"
90 Deg.     .75 to 4.0       9/16" to 5/8"    1/8" to 3/16"       1/16"


 
 

A Setting - Above Setting
From the center of the nozzle to the center of the electrode tips.


 

B Setting - Horizontal Setting
Between the electrode tips.


 

C Setting - Forward Setting
From tip of nozzle to center of tip of electrodes.


 

Remove the nozzle by placing a 5/8" wrench on the nozzle (turn counter clockwise) and a 3/4" or 11/16" wrench on the nozzle body (hold in position).

 
 

Spray liquid degreaser through nozzle assembly oil supply tube by placing the cleaner bottle against the nozzle assembly (where the nozzle was located) and force cleaner through the tube to flush out any contaminants.

 
 

Purchase a nozzle... An average nozzle might read .75 G.P.H. and 80A this means the unit is using .75 gallons per hour (if the unit would continuously run for an hour) and has an 80 degree spray pattern. Pictured here is a .75 G.P.H., the angle is stamped in the same manner. The A means it is a hollow spray pattern. Spray patterns are as follows:

H- Hollow
NS- Hollow
PL- Hollow
A- Hollow
B- Solid
S- Solid
P- Solid
R-Solid
SS- Semi Solid
Q- Custom Design
W- Custom Design
ES- Solid
SH- Semi Hollow
PLP- Semi Solid
AR- Custom Solid
HV- High Velocity Narrow Spray
CC- Constant Capacity Solid


 
 

Reinstall the new nozzle. Snug NOT too tight!

 
 

Reinstall the retention head in the same manner that it was removed (if the head is mounted to the electrode assembly).

 
 

Reinstall nozzle assembly into burner tube.

 
 

Push the end of the nozzle assembly fuel supply tube through the burner housing.

 
 

Adjust the drawer assembly to its original position 
(lining it up with the scratch).

 
 

Tighten the locking screw.

 
 

Put the nut on the nozzle fuel supply tube and gently tighten with a pliars.

 
 

Reattach the fuel nozzle line and tighten with the proper size wrench.

Close and tighten the screws on the transformer.

Proceed to priming the fuel pump (located in the full version of the e-book).

Congratulations... you have just replaced your fuel nozzle.

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